Garage Cabinets and Storage Built for a Working Garage

Every base cabinet goes in either wall-hung and floating, or up on heavy-duty adjustable steel legs, several inches clear of the slab.

There are three reasons, and all of them show up eventually. Concrete wicks moisture, so a cabinet bottom in contact with it will swell from underneath. A garage floor gets hosed, salted and snow-melted every winter. And you want to be able to sweep or squeegee under the run rather than around it.

The adjustable legs handle the other problem: a garage slab is deliberately sloped toward the overhead door for drainage, and it is rarely flat. We laser-level the cabinet run and dial each leg to the floor so the countertop is level and the doors hang true, regardless of what the concrete is doing.

Butcher block for a woodworking or general-purpose bench. Warm, repairable, sandable, and it does not dull a chisel you set down on it.

Stainless steel where the bench sees solvents, oil or automotive work. Nothing soaks in.

Either one gets braced underneath for vibration. A bench that a benchtop planer or a bandsaw sits on has to resist the machine walking, and unbraced tops loosen their fasteners over a season.

Height is worth deciding deliberately. Thirty-six inches matches kitchen counter height and suits general use. Thirty-four is better for heavy assembly where you want to get over the work. Forty-plus is right for a standing detail or hobby bench.

For most families the garage-to-house door is the real front door, and the three feet on either side of it decide whether the house stays clean.

We build lockers, benches with shoe storage underneath, coat hooks at kid height and adult height, and cubbies sized to the bags your family actually carries. Finished the same way as interior cabinetry, because that wall is on the inside of the insulation and gets seen every day.

If the mudroom shares space with your laundry, we build the two runs as one project.